Foundation should come first so I think we should start with the leg. The leg I use has a oval hole in it and a 1/2″ hole through the upper part for the bole that holds the bench together. The bolt threads into an insert cast into the bottom of the bench top. (Mold shown below.)

There are bench leg molds available but I have not seen any with this connecting feature. You might want to design and build your own and make it more personal. The concrete I use is Quickrete and I add a little Portland cement. (about 2 pounds per 80 pounds of Quickrete). It makes it a bit stronger and easier to finish.

I hope this enough to start. We will get to the bench top mold next.

Antique concrete bench leg mold

Antique concrete bench leg mold

The mold after it has been filled with concrete - with threaded pipe used to connect leg to top.

The mold after it has been filled with concrete - with pipe temporarily installed. The pipe will be pulled out just before the concrete sets, and the resulting channel will be used for the connecting bolt that holds the finished leg to the top of the concrete bench.

Installing the bolts in the top so it can be connected to the leg.

Installing the bolts in the top so it can be connected to the leg.

Connecting the top to the molded leg for safety.

Connecting the top to the molded leg for safety.

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13 comments untill now

  1. Hi Pete.

    Thanks for posting this Ive been looking all over for instructions on how to do a concrete bench.
    I have tried to some what recreate the leg molds in
    your picture and my first leg pour came out fairly
    good but I had to beat the center to death to get it
    out even though I had oiled the heck out of it. Are
    the rounds that make the through hole tapered? Also
    are the little pea sized and smaller bubble holes normal or do I need to vibrate it more?

    [Reply]

    Pete Reply:

    You can sometimes get most all the bubbles out but it is dificult. If it is important to you to have a smooth finish mix very fine sand and cement together and rub it on dampened product with a rag or paper towel. Let it dry a little and wipe off all excess.

    [Reply]

  2. All parts of your mold need to be tapered to release the concrete.

    [Reply]

  3. Larry Holzem @ 2010-01-28 05:15

    Hey Grampa Pete,

    Awesome article. I was wondering if you are willing to share the diemesions of your frame pieces…? As well as a template of your feet casts…?

    thanks,
    larryim@charter.net

    [Reply]

    Pete Reply:

    Hi. We have no secrets so Here are the dimensions we use. For leg.
    Bottom 5 1/2″
    Top 3 3/4″
    Highth 16″
    For top.
    Lengh 48 1/4″
    Width 17 1/4″ 2 3/8″ thick.
    I hope this answers your questions. If you Make one we would like to see a picture. Thanks.
    Grampa Pete

    [Reply]

  4. James Teter @ 2010-01-31 19:13

    Is there a retail outlet that you know of, to buy the threaded inserts for the bench bolts? Thanks, Jim

    [Reply]

    Pete Reply:

    Hi Jim,
    You might try any concrete company that does precast work. They should at least point you in the right direction.
    Grampa Pete

    [Reply]

  5. Nancy Andol @ 2010-06-01 12:48

    I have been looking for a bench leg mold that has design inside as well as outside…is this called 3 dimensional? and does it need to be bolted, etc.? Do not want one that has to be cemented together after unmolding..your top picture shows what I’m looking for ..thank you, nancy

    [Reply]

    Pete Reply:

    Hi Nancy;
    With a simple two piece mold I think you would have trouble stripping. Everything needs to be tapered and smooth. You could put designs on the flat face of your mold. I think that would work. I don’t know what you would call that.
    Grampa Pete

    [Reply]

  6. Hi There, Congrats on the great work! I’m just wondering if you could point me in the right direction in finding a leg mould similar to yours.I have looked and haven’t really found anything that I liked. I am not very handy when it comes to making my own so I was just wondering if you had any suggestions…Thanks

    [Reply]

  7. Hi,
    My only suggestion would be to take a drawing or a picture of the one in the blog to a woodworker and ask him (or her) about it. Be sure to taper the sides and the hole to let the concrete strip. I hope that is of some help and if you have other questions please ask.
    Grampa Pete

    [Reply]

    Charlie Reply:

    Hi again, I am in the process of getting a mould made based off of your dimesions in the early post. The only thing that I am stuck on is the length of the top portion of the mould and the bottom as well..also im not sure what you mean by letting the concrete strip..anyway help would be greatly appreciated! thanks again…pictures to follow when done!

    -Charlie

    [Reply]

  8. Hi Charlie,
    The top and bottom measurements are both 14 inches. My reference to stripping is to be sure all surfaces are tapered so there is nothing for the concrete to hang up on. I use several coats of spar varnish on the finished mold.
    Grampa Pete

    [Reply]

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